It does not require an install. You simple download the main application from here

This simple download will create a boot floppy, or an ISO image that you can burn to a CD.

When the program boots it will immediately begin scanning your memory. The default is standard mode, which includes six different tests. Each uses a different algorithm to scan for different types of problems and errors. It will show its progress as it is completing each test.

Read the rest and view test screenshots at IntelliAdmins.

There is little agreement on how much–or even whether–defragmenting improves your PC’s performance, but having files closer together on the disk reduces the amount of movement required by the drive’s mechanical parts. This should make it last longer, though such factors as operating environment and the quality of its components probably have a greater impact on its life span.

Regardless of whether it will actually improve your system’s performance and reliability, I do know that there’s a better way to defragment your drive than using the utility built into Windows: you’ll get the job done in less time by using Auslogics’ free Disk Defrag utility.

Windows’ own Disk Defragmenter is a slug compared to Auslogics’ alternative. At least in XP, you got some feedback while the Windows defragger was working; Vista doesn’t give you a clue what’s happening after you click the Defragment Now button, other than to let you know that the process could take from a few minutes to a few hours (my bet’s on the latter). I know many people scoff at the dancing colored blocks on the map as pointless, but I kinda like ‘em.

Read the full story at cNet.

Windows Home Server is the answer to a couple of questions — one of them yours, and one of them Microsoft’s. 

The question for you is, do you have a home network that connects several PCs, but no backups of all the important data on those PCs? The odds are you do. If so, Windows Home Server may be just the solution you need. This extremely smart server application will back up all those PCs as safely as you want, provide easy access to the files you want to share on your network (like music and media files), and even give you remote access to your files and computers across the Internet.

That may all sound too good to be true, but believe it. Windows Home Server is a great application. It does have what you might consider a downside: you have to dedicate a PC to running it. But while you might think of laying out for another computer as a problem, to Microsoft that’s an opportunity. In fact, Microsoft thinks there are perhaps as many as 40 million people just like you out there, which is its estimate of the market for its Window Home Server product.

And that’s what makes it the answer to Microsoft’s question. The company sells 90%-plus of all the operating system software in the world. Its potential growth is tied to the growth of PC hardware. So how does it sell you another PC — not a replacement, but an additional computer? Same answer: Windows Home Server.

Read the full guide at  InformationWeek.

Be careful not to disable a program that your system needs to start properly. Paul Collins’ Startup Applications List can help you determine whether a program is required, or if it can (and sometimes definitely should) be disabled. Play it safe by disabling the programs one at a time, and restarting your system to make sure everything’s copacetic before disabling another and repeating the process.

Read the rest at  cNet.

Soon after Windows Vista came out, many suggestions for tweaking the operating system to improve performance emerged. Unfortunately, most of those tweaks turned out to be pretty disappointing: they either provided the illusion of better performance but did nothing of substance, or they were rehashes of existing Windows XP tips that might note even be valid on Vista. Still, there are plenty of things that can be done to make Vista run better. Over the past several months I’ve kept an eye peeled as to what actually works, what doesn’t, and why. With less work than you might think, it’s entirely possible to have Vista running quite snappily.

I’ve assembled here the fruits of that personal research into what works when it comes to making Vista run well. I’ve listed these in roughly descending order of effectiveness, with most effective first.

Read the 12 tips at InformationWeek

These instructions are primarily for assembling a PC based on an ATX case, motherboard, and power supply. Older AT components assemble in a similar fashion. I will attempt to update this article when I am able to deal with some equipment based on the cutting-edge BTX specification. I strongly recommend that you read the entire article before beginning, and that you have some degree of PC hardware repair or upgrade experience before trying to build your own PC.

Preparation

The two biggest dangers in assembling a PC are static and debris. To protect from the former, you want to build your computer on a workbench over a hard floor. Walking on carpet can give you a static charge, which can damage components. You should also keep parts in their anti-static bags or containers until you’re ready to use them. The other concern, debris, means simply that you want to keep your workspace and parts clean. Small bits of metal or packing material can cause problems, so take care not to introduce them to the assembly environment.

Now that we’re done with the safety stuff, let?s get into the fun part. There is one major feature of your case that can affect the assembly process: a slide out motherboard tray. If you have one, make use of it, it makes assembly much easier to be able to do it outside the case. If your tray doesn’t slide out, no worries; while the space is a bit cramped, you can still get the job done. In terms of tools for assembly, you should just need an average size Phillips screwdriver.

Step 1: Motherboard Insertion

Everything that you put in your system in some way connects to the motherboard. Thus, we insert it first. Motherboards attach to the case via a set of mounting holes on the board. Some of these holes should line up with brass standoffs on the motherboard tray. Key areas to have support under are the expansion slots and memory slots. If there are standoffs with no corresponding hole, remove them (they screw out) to prevent contact issues with the motherboard. If you’re lacking standoffs in key areas, they can be added by drilling and tapping a hole in the tray (though this is difficult, and should usually be unnecessary). An alternative to this is the small plastic feet that ship with some motherboards and cases, which can be inserted into the mounting holes to provide support. At least a few holes need to be screwed in to provide secure mounting and some ground lines for the motherboard.

If your motherboard has an odd port layout, it may require a special I/O shield. This is the bit of metal that the ports poke through to the outside world. The motherboard should come with the shield if necessary (if it didn’t, and your ports don’t match the case, read on to special circumstances). Replacing the shield is a simple matter of popping the old one out and pressing the new one into place.

The motherboard should be slid into the case port-edge first. If you move it in at an angle, and line up the ports with the shield, you can then easily lower the motherboard down onto the standoffs. You may need to shift it a bit side to side to line up the holes. Once you’re in, screw in the motherboard screws (usually short brass or steel screws with hexagonal Phillips heads) hand tight (There isn’t a part of this project you should use a driver on; they can cause damage to the delicate threads involved). When the motherboard is in to your satisfaction, we can move on to the next step.